Monday, February 28, 2011

2nd Vietnam Entry...

We started yesterday morning a little later than normal, and left with our team at 9:30 to head over to a government run orphanage here in DaNang.  This was a pretty clean place, too, and the kids were all hanging out in the courtyard when we  arrived.  We have a cool Vietnam vet on our team, Dave, who everyone is calling Santa.  He makes trips to the "Big C" (Vietnam WalMart) and stocks up on bubbles, balls, cars, dolls, etc. for all of us to hand out to the kids.  They love it, and we love putting a smile on their face. 

Steve is ever the entertainer in these situations, and I'm very glad for it.  His juggling, hacky sacking, card tricks, etc. help take the awkwardness out of the situation.  It's WAY easier to laugh and play with these kids than to try to have a conversation with them.  It's pretty rare for any of them to know English, and those that do, don't know much at this age.   The girls on staff with GIBTK translate for us as necessary, but it feels right for us to get in there and play with them.  It's cute because at basically every stop with a new set of kids, at least one child will "claim" you as her own, and you'll find yourself pulled in this direction or that so that she can show you something, get a different game going, or hang a little closer than the others.   At this stop, it was Hyuen (pronounced "when"), a precious five-year old that you would seriously want to take home with you.  Honestly, you feel like that with them all though...

One thing that I love that is part of this culture is how little personal space that they need.  I'm not noticing so much that people are talking too closely to my face or anything like that, although I know that others notice that.  What I love is that they are very touchy, but it feels just welcoming and affectionate in a friendly and tender way.  The girls that are GIBTK staff, the kids at the orphanages, and the other locals that we are meeting will just hug you, wrap their arm around your waist, link their arm in yours, put their hand on your leg, hold your hand... it's VERY different from what we are used to.

Next we were off to the Hai Chau Orphanage.  Most of the kids here had been dropped off by their parents because they couldn't afford to take care of them anymore.  The really crazy thing, and the thing that makes me feel the pain that these kids must feel, is that their parents only dropped off one of their kids and kept the others.  Can you even imagine being the child that your parents took to the orphanage??  There is one situation there where two of the boys are brothers... dropped off at different times, first the older boy, followed eventually by the younger one. 

Duyen was the girl who claimed me here.  She is 11 and was another beautiful and sweet kid.  We took the kids out to a nice lunch, and she spent much of our time teaching me Vietnamese and proper pronunciation by reading the menu.  When we go out with our own kids, or if we're with a group of kids, we (and I think you) put limits on what the kids can order..."You can choose this or this.  Share that with your sister." etc.  But these kids are so used to having their standard rice with some fish or meat maybe, that when they get to go out, Robert just lets them get whatever they  want, and they go to town!!!  It's pretty fun to see actually.  They are used to so little that it is just a joy to indulge them.  So, on to the ice cream parlor for further indulgence :)

We headed back and cleaned up for an hour or so, and then headed back to Hoi Ahn.  We visited the Hoi Ahn Orphanage, and could see a significant difference in the feel and in the kids.  Although, this orphanage, which is not associated with GIBTK, is government run, it's administration is not the best.  Steve heard one of the adult men yelling at a kid, for example.  The kids were way more rowdy and disrespectful with each other.  There were a few other "gringos" there, which was nice to see, and we came in with our bubbles, balls, candy, and other goodies again.  Steve and I checked out the first main rooms.  I picked up a crying baby, maybe 6 months old, and once you've got 'em, there's no setting them down until we're loading back on that shutle bus.  At one point I had one on each hip because as I walked around the beds of the other kids in this "high needs" area, talking to them, a little blind toddler stood up with her arms held high for me to pick her up.  How can I refuse that?  Thankfully, I've been toting kids for long enough that I can double do it without much problem, and off we went.

When we left the orphanage, we grabbed dinner in Hoi Ahn, peeked into a few shops, and headed back to Sandy Beach to crash.

Today was an early start to a very cool day.  We drove out to Dai Loc (maybe a half hour drive) to visit poor families in need of "compassion houses."  A compassion house is what we and some friends raised money for with the "Costume Party with a Purpose."  We'll get to see that house and meet that family on Thursday!

The very first stop of the day was an emotional one.  The woman that we went to see had JUST lost her son and brother (or brother-in-law) in a motorbike accident five days ago.  Her husband died the same way (hit by a truck while riding his motorbike) five years ago.  The woman was 39 and was there with her 78-year-old mother-in-law and her 18-year-old (remaining) son.  I just felt her pain so much.  Her loss was so fresh.  It turned out that Robert felt that her house was do-able, but that GIBTK could help her family in another way.  He told the son (who said that he'd like to be a lawyer some day) that if he would like, GIBTK would get him prepared to take the entrance exam (they have done this before with a group of kids), and if he studied hard and passed, they would pay for him to go to a university.  His mother had been prepared to beg family for a loan, but now this boy has the chance to reach his goals, which include being able to help support his mother and grandmother.  It's cool to see how much this day and this generosity can impact a whole family and even community (and even the world!).  When we left I gave the woman a hug, and she just started sobbing, which as most of you know, means that I'll start sobbing.  So, after many tears and my attempts at supportive and affection words, we were off to our next "cry-fest" as Steve called it.

We went to three more houses, but the fifth house of the day was very special for us in particular.  Steve has a very generous heart, but he wants to help people who do what they can to help themselves.  When we went into this house, he was so impressed that although it was little more than a shack, it was very clean in and around it.  A hot meal for the family was on the small (child's patio-type) table.  Clearly, the woman who we were about to meet did much with very little.  Her story went like this:  She is 34 or 35 with four children ranging in age from 15 down to 4 or so.  She had a stroke 3 years ago that left her paralyzed on the right side of her body.  Her husband left her at that time because he couldn't deal with it (those are my words), took her now 12 or 13-year-old son with him (jerk- my words again), and recently married another.  She needs a wheelchair or major assistance to get around and is selling lottery tickets in the street to support her other three children.  She makes $1 a day on a good day, but she can't sell every day because of her physical limitations, etc.   Wow!!  We are all so ridiculously blessed, and when you see people in need like this, and know that you have the ability to help impact their lives in a SIGNIFICANT way, of course you do it...

The crazy thing is that this house hadn't been on the radar until just recently.  It was not in Robert's original plan to go check it out (his staff had recently researched it), and yet here we were (a God thing in my opinion).  Not even knowing that Robert was listening to this and wondering where he would find the funds to help this lady, Steve told me to tell Robert that we wanted to get this family a home.  Robert had Steve and I tell her (while one of his staff translated) that we would like to build her a house and why, and she just started sobbing.  We hugged and I thought she might never let go.  I think the last time I saw Steve that emotional was either when our kids were born or when his grandmother died.  He was just very moved by her situation and her determination to do what she had to do.  The saying that you are "blessed to bless" has two meanings to me... we are blessed with certain things so that we can share them with others, AND that we are seriously blessed when we bless others. 

Steve and Robert have been spinning their brains on what else can be done for this lady, and they practically have a roadside convenience store business plan mapped out for her.  It's cool to see Steve's talents for business put to action in this way.   He's so excited.  I swear he'll probably want to come build the house himself!  He was already keeping his eye out at the Big-C for furniture for her today ;)  I forgot to mention that only furniture in the house is the small kids' resin table and chairs, one narrow, little, console-type table with a skinny, little bench, and a twin-sized bed (which is a raised, slatted, wood pallet) for FOUR people.  We asked, "Do they all sleep on the one bed?"  Answer: "Yes."  They move that skinny, little bench over to the side of it to try to make more room.  So, GIBTK put a bed on her list of goodies.  They're bringing a couple of bikes to the kids, and Ko (Daisy in English) will get a new wheelchair (her last one broke).

We saw another home, then headed back to the hotel.  It had a been a long and emotional day.  Steve went shopping at the Big-C with Dave and bought a bunch more toys for the kids, while I took a breather here.  Then he, Ashley (Steve's cousin who lives in South Korea currently), and I headed to Marble Mountain for a hike up to see the caves and pagodas.  We got a late start, but managed to see sunset at the top and check out this cool place. 

Here are some pics from the last couple of days.
Thanks for keeping tabs on us!!
xoxo

On the road to Dai Loc. We are amazed at the
loads that they place on these little motorbikes.

Rice field

Rice cakes drying on the side of the road

Ashley and Huang walking arm and arm, which
is so typical here.

Cemetery in the countryside

Pure Vietnam


The family that lives here will receive a new home and a
college education for their 18-year old, eldest daughter.  She was
amazingly bright, and it's neat to see that this will literally change
EVERYTHING for this hard working farm family.  Their monthly income
to support themselves, mom, and four kids: $10 US


I believe this is Grandma at that house.  I just thought she was gorgeous.

Ashley explaining to the family that she'd like to build a home for them.

This is the neighbor's kitchen.  She dragged (literally) me over to
her place to campaign ;)

Steve and the son hacky-sacking with a very unusual "sack."

The "hacky-sack"

This was another family's home who will be getting
a new house.  Steve is pointing at a little water pump they use
to get some water to the house through a little hose outside.

Their pig... That pen looks miserable, but we were pleased
that they at least had the pig and a couple of chickens.

Out front of one of the places.  We draw quite a crowd of neighbors, etc.

That's a little duck farm.  See the tiny ducklings gathered in the water pen?

This is Ko's family's home, the one that we will sponsor

The house was divided into two sections.  This is the back section, the kitchen area.

This bed is in the front section with a drape/shower curtain type of divider.
This is where this ENTIRE family sleeps, but not for long!!

Steph explaining to Ko that we would like to have a home built for her
and why.  You can see the drape around the bed behind Steve.

Lots of tears.  I can only imagine the relief she must feel that
people are willing to help her family.

"Our" family

Tobacco leaves drying along the road.  There is a RJ Reynolds factory
in DaNang.  I'm guessing this will be headed there.

Steve and Steph on Marble Mountain.  We met have met some vets here, and
apparently one of them was on top of the mountain in the background for
forty-five days when he served here as a marine.

Crazy Americans

Pagodas on top of the mountain which is home to ten monks

The mountain has tons of caverns with shrines and buddhas, etc. inside.
See the big one behind the shrine?

Overlooking China Beach.  Our hotel is down toward the right.
Steve's dad was on China Beach when he received the telegram from the
Red Cross that Steve had been born.

Cool architecture
Yuna and a little friend at one of the orphanages
Ashley and my little ball player
Playing catch with one of the little balls that
we gave out along with other goodies

Steve teaches a little juggling class :)

This was hilarious!  Steve did one of his best card tricks in
which the card that was picked ends up
somewhere far from the deck.  In this case, it was in this girl's pocket. 
She screamed bloody murder when she saw the card in her
pocket and threw it at Steve like it was alive and going to get her. 
Good times!

Sunday, February 27, 2011

Vietnam!!!

Hey, Everyone!  I'm jumping ahead to Vietnam.  I'm a snowy weekend in Sonora, a bicycle ride over the Golden Gate, and a move out of our awesome SF pad behind, but I'll get back to it shortly.

Steve and I left for Vietnam on the red-eye flight Wednesday night/Thursday early morning.  We arrived in Hong Kong at 6:45 a.m. Friday morning and pressed on to Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon) a couple of hours later.  Robert, the founder of Giving It Back To Kids (GIBTK), met us at the airport, and we were on our way to a WHOLE new adventure. 

It's funny because we feel fairly well-traveled, but that's just within our group of friends.  In reality, we have barely scratched the surface of what is out there to experience:  cool cultures that we know so little about, beautiful and amazing landscapes, and beautiful and amazing people, too.  Arriving in Asia is like being on another planet.  That's especially true of Vietnam.  According to others we have met, Vietnam has been in a bit of a time warp and is about 50 years behind other non-third world countries.  A new friend on our "team" here is from Korea, and Vietnam is a world apart even for her.  For us, it's new sounds, an incredibly difficult language to pronounce (correctly!!), new tastes and smells, but we're diving in.

When we arrived, Robert took us on a quick walking tour of the downtown Saigon area.  We went on the roof of the REX Hotel where the press stayed and where the US military generals, etc. were able to view distant battles and strategize during the Vietnam War, which is called the American War here.  We saw other government buildings as well and did some quick shopping.  Robert often treats his guests/team members to a "foot massage," especially because it's so "helpful after a long flight."  He didn't leave us so much in the dark that we didn't know we were in for an experience, but we didn't know it would be THAT crazy. 

The "foot" massage is really a full-body-torture-rub-the-same-spot-til-you-freak-out-chiropractice-pain-massage.  Steve even got a bonus leg waxing.  He swears that his leg hair got rubbed off in parts.  It is seriously a knuckle grinding, full impact kind of thing.  I can't believe these little Vietnamese girls have the strength to do it for an hour.  Anyhow, I literally broke out in "pain sweats," but Steve and I would look over at each other and start laughing, too because we couldn't believe how crazy this was.  We did feel great when we left, but we're not quite sure if you feel so great because they just rubbed all of your knots away and "reflexologied" you into wellness, or if you're body is just so glad to not be in pain anymore that you think you're feeling good :)

Later that night we met and had dinner with some of the kids from "Grace House."  It is an orphanage run by GIBTK.  The kids range in age from five to seventeen, and they are truly great kids.  They were all so sweet, well-behaved, and fun.  Now that we've been here for three days, we are seeing that much of what we do here is simply show these kids love.  Steve has such a gift to work with kids.  He brought his cards and has been mesmerizing kids across Vietnam with his card tricks and other fun "tricks" since we got here.  They love it, and he does too.

Since we'd been awake for over 24 hours, we crashed pretty hard that night.  We slept from probably 10:30 to 5:00 a.m. which is pretty good for that big of a jump (Vietnam is 15 hours ahead of CA).  We were able to video chat with the kids and my parents that morning, which was fantastic (except to hear that my Grandpa is not doing well.  Please keep him in your prayers).  We love that we are able to see the kids for a short visit.  It is unbelievable to be on the other side of the world, and have a live video conversation with your children for free.  Technology is amazing!!

After breakfast that morning, Robert took us to the market and back for a little bit more souvenir shopping since this would be our last chance to hit the streets of Ho Chi Minh City during the day.  The food market is unbelievable.  We were out by about 7:45, and the vendors were all ready to go.  Their meat selection is extensive not so much because they have a huge variety of animals, but they have a huge variety of animal parts.  We saw brains, feet, ears, skin, stomach, liver, kidney, intestines, other glands... Really, while it's gross, it's also admirable that they use EVERY part of the animal that they kill.  The seafood area is crazy, too.  They don't have refrigeration, so they keep much of their catch alive in aerated bins: crabs of all types, lobster, shrimp, fish of so many varieties, eels.  They did have things that were already dead or chopped up.  We loved it because it's just amazing to see how different people live.  They have fruit, too, that we've never seen before.  Gorgeous, exotic, and some of it delicious!!

Before we went to the airport to fly to Da Nang, we went by the orphanage in Saigon that Robert's daughter was from.  Apparently, this orphanage has made leaps and bounds of improvement since his daughter was there ten years ago.  The administrator changed since that time, and life for those kids changed in such a positive way.  This orphanage is a government-sponsored one, but GIBTK contributes there in different ways, including that they've hired two physicial therapists to work at the orphanage with the kids who suffer from cerebral palsy and other conditions that put them in need.   This orphanage was surprising clean and non-smelly.  The kids all looked clean, weren't crying or screaming bloody murder, and had dry diapers.  It was seriously amazing.  I don't know if the babies, for example, are just so used to not being held much that they don't think of crying as a way of communicating that you want to be held, but that's what it seemed like.  We held and loved on babies that were infants (and likely being adopted soon); then we moved to another area with toddlers.  Those kids loved being held, and cried when we had to put them back in the crib and leave.  It's great to hold them and get them giggling, and it's TERRIBLE to put them down and walk away.  This orphanage also had a significant group of kids with severe issues/handicaps... a whole room with children with hydrocephalus.  It's truly heartbreaking.  I could feel sobs about to break out, but I really just sucked it up and put a happy smile on my face and a twinkle in my eye and rubbed their arms and talked to them sweetly.  I figured that they were probably used to being looked at by people with sad faces or tears in their eyes, and I wanted them to smile and laugh (if they could and some of them could) and feel looked at for the amazing little beings that they are. 

Our flight to DaNang was quick and easy... getting through security with Steve wearing his Leatherman was stressful, but it all worked out, and we boarded the plane with a few minutes to spare :)  In DaNang, we checked into Sandy Beach Resort, which is a lovely place.  Steve and I had reserved a "beach villa" not knowing exactly what that meant, and we were happy to find that we truly have a little villa (two bathrooms even!) right on China Beach.  We love it.  We're not spending much time here, but we still love it ;). 

We headed  over to Hoi Ahn, an ancient city near DaNang, that evening.  It is truly a beautiful place.  It has buildings that date back to the 15th century, cobblestone streets, and delicious dining options.  It reminded us a bit of a combination between Old Cabo and Pirates of the Caribbean.   We had a lovely meal followed by a quick scan of the cool shops, most of which are shops with silk and other fabrics that make custom clothing.  We took a quick little tour of the silk making process, which is fascinating, and headed back to get some sleep. 

Today was filled, too, of course, but I'll write about it later.  It's getting late again :)
Ooh, one weird thing... Facebook is blocked in Vietnam.  The government doesn't want to allow it.  We had no idea that a website could be blocked to a country.  It makes me wonder if they block certain political or religious sites, too....

Here are some pics to check out.

"Light" traffic in Ho Chi Minh City.
There is an amazing number of motorbikes.  Apparently, up until a couple of years
ago, there were virtually no cars at all.

Snake wine... Bleck!!

This pic does NOT do justice to the driving situation here.
They seriously just go... There are often no stoplights at all,
and when there is one..."Red is a suggestion." :)
Crossing the street is an art.

Steve and Steph in front of The People's Committee Building

A motorbike transporting ice.  They transport everything on these things.
We even saw a guy driving with another guy on the
back holding a ladder straight up in the air.

One of my new favorite fruits: mangosteen

Yummy!

Last year a law enforced helmets for adults, but not for kids. 
Children right in front and on the back of these things like it's no big deal.

Check out this wiring (This one's for you, Mark :) )!!

Grace House kids LOVED getting the goodies that Havi and Ellery made for them.

Steph and Robert walking through the market

Steph with some eels... That's supposed to be an eel face ;)
We watched a lady skinning them right there!

A plethora of body parts

SHOES!!

Steve and a sweetie at the first orphanage we visited

These precious babies were just SO happy to be held and talked to.
They melted our hearts.


Seriously adorable!  You really do want to scoop them up and take them home.

Arriving at the DaNang airport.  We were greeted by the kids from Hai Chao-
an orphanage for DaNang "street kids."

DaNang is much mellower than HCM, but is on its way to
becoming a serious tourist destination with massive beach resorts going in
down the strip.

In front of our villa at Sandy Beach Resort on China Beach

The traditional Stewart "jump shot"

Strolling the streets of Hoi Ahn

Some of our "team" headed to dinner

An example of one of MANY shops in Hoi Ahn that create custom
clothing.  Steve is having two shirts made and I am getting a dress... to be
delivered to our hotel on Tuesday ;)

The silk "factory"
Baby silk worms

The cocoons.  They drop 80% of them into boiling water which removes
the natural glue substance that holds the strands of silk together (and kills the moth inside
of course).  The other 20% are allowed to emerge and lay their eggs.

Silk on the loom

Some of their dyed silk